Vintage... Not Just a State of Mind! Unlike Human Age, a Grape’s Birth Year Matters!
The Proof is in the glass!
Vintage is a fancy wine word for the year in which the grapes were harvested. It's like the wine's birth year! But why does it matter? Well, quality wine isn't something that's manufactured. It goes through a whole series of processes, from the time the vines start growing to when the wine is poured into our glasses, all influencing the taste of the wine.
Firstly, grapes are an agricultural product, which means that the weather conditions during that year can have a big impact on the flavors that end up in your glass. Things like spring frosts, rains, winds, temperatures during the growing season, drought, and autumn rains can all influence the flavors that develop in the grapes. The life of the grape does not end there. Every step in the winery in a given year will impact the resulting wine. Even once bottled, the wine continues to evolve. Wines are truly like living things!
My point?
The year on the label really does matter. It's important to pay attention to it. But don't just take my word for it. The proof is in the glass!
Let me give you an example. Back in February 2023, I recommended a GMS blend to my followers. It was a Torbreck Old Vines Grenache Mourvèdre Shiraz 2018. I described it as a medium-bodied Australian red with aromas of violet, strawberry, red plums, cherry, cocoa, tobacco, and wet leaves, with notes of dried herbs. The flavors lingered on the palate, indicating high quality.
Since then, I've opened another bottle of the 2018 vintage that I bought earlier this year, as well as a 2019 bottle that I purchased last month. I tasted both blind. And guess what? The 2018 has changed since February 2023 – showing the change that takes place in the bottle. The 2019 tastes different from both 2018 bottles.
The 2018 wine has reached its peak and is now on the decline; demonstrated by the drop in acidity and the fading of tannins resulting in a light-bodied wine (vs medium-bodied in February). The overall intensity is less pronounced, and the flavors are less complex, although they still have great precision. It's still a lovely wine, it has become elegant, but I recommend drinking it within a few months.
As for the 2019, it has more tannins, acidity, and body than the 2018 currently shows. However, it has less intensity and precision of fruit, and the finish is disappointing and quickly fades. It's amazing how dynamic wine can be, right?
Another clear example of vintage differences was in last week’s post, where I compared Oregon's Illahe Pinot Gris from the 2021 and 2022 vintages.
2021 had rainstorms during flowering, which lowered the crop yield. This turned out to be a good thing because lower yields mean higher concentration of flavors. Additionally, it was an ideal harvest with no rains, allowing for optimal ripeness in September. This resulted in a ripe fruit flavors of stone fruit flavors like apricot, nectarine, and peach.
On the other hand, the 2022 vintage suffered from spring frosts and a rainy spring, which slowed vine growth and grape ripening. The harvest was in October, a month later than in 2021. This initial delay in vine and grape development resulted in higher acidity and less ripe flavors, with more citrus and green fruit notes. Some people might prefer the crisp and tart nature of the 2021 vintage, while others might enjoy the different characteristics of the 2022 vintage.
Ultimately, these two very different wines, will be prefered by different people and with different foods - it’s mother nature's way of making a wine for everyone and for every meal. Nifty, ain’t it!
My parting words: vintage matters - it's not just a fancy term, it's a way to appreciate the journey of the grapes from the vineyard to your glass. Pay attention to the year when following a recommendation and if you find a wine that you really enjoy, don't assume that the following year's vintage will be exactly the same.
Cheers to the birth year of the grapes and the amazing flavors they bring!
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Love this!! I appreciate your explanations of what can be an intimidating subject - one that can sometimes feel insurmountable to those who (like me) who barely know their Pinot Noir from Burgundy, much less the year it was bottled. Many thanks, Eveline, for the fun and informative articles!