Syrah’s Canadian Challenge: Buds, Frost, and Bold Reds
- the rise & freeze of syrah in canada.
If a genie in a bottle granted me only one grape variety to grow on my deserted island, (with perfect grape growing conditions), I would negotiate for more than one.
I do not think that is how it works.
How would you know? Have you had experience with this?
I luckily am not in that situation, but I would have to say that Syrah is definitely on the short list.
I have written about Syrah once in the context of the Northern Rhône where Syrah is the main red grape there. Shiraz is the Australian name for Syrah and is Australia’s top grape planting. The name Shiraz is also widely used elsewhere. Even though it is the same grape, typically the name Shiraz is used for wines that are more new world in style and often from a warmer climate.
Is Northern Rhône where Syrah originated?
Good question. DNA profiling was done at two very respected winemaking schools: UC Davis in California and Montpellier in Southern France. In 1998, they established that Syrah’s parents are Mondeuse Blanche and Dureza from Southeastern France.
Never heard of them.
Nope, I would not expect you to. But I know you have heard of Pinot Noir, which is very likely the great-grandparent of Syrah. Pinot Noir being an ancient grape who, let’s say…. ah-hem ….spread its wild oats so to speak!
I have also written about Syrah numerous times here, here, and, here in the context of GSM blends. GSM stands for Grenache/Garnacha, Syrah/Shiraz, and Mourvèdre/Monastrell/Mataro.
But now, join me in North America, specifically Canada.
Hold your snow sleds. If Syrah grows particularly well in the Rhône and Australia, why are you talking about Canada. Not exactly the same climate. I would have assumed that Syrah would need a warm climate or at least a moderate climate. However, from hanging with you, I know Canada is a cold climate.
All true. I still have a story to tell, however.
I often talk about moderating effects of bodies of water (ocean, rivers, lakes, etc) , typically in the context of a cooling influence on the wine region’s climate. But moderating effects swing both ways. It reduces the extremes of both the highs and the lows. Therefore, most Canadian grapes are grown near bodies of water: lakes, or the Pacific or Atlantic Ocean.
In British Columbia’s Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys, Syrah is planted in the warmer areas further south closer to the American border, or where there is an intense sun influence. If a proper plot is chosen, Syrah can fully ripen and produce full bodied reds.
I feel like there is a punch line coming.
Indeed.
“Why don’t you grow coconuts?”
This was the mocking that Alex Nichol of Nichols Vineyard received when he planted the first British Columbian Syrah vines in 1991. This was early days for British Columbia vineyards with only 20 wineries (now there are closer to 300.) Until recently, Syrah was one of the top 5 planted black varieties along with Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc.
What changed?
Sadly, in the last two winters, Okanagan and Similkameen Valley vines suffered bud damage and some winter kill. Bud damage results in lower grape and wine yields for the upcoming season, but winter kill means a portion of, or the full vine, dies.
In December 2022 there was a significant drop in temperature which resulted in a grape production drop of 56-58% in 2023. In January of 2024 it happened again, but much more severely. On the first day there was a very sudden drop of 1.5 degrees Celsius per hour from 5 C to -20 C with the temperature dropping to-30 C the next day.
Vines have a back up bud system.
Shouldn’t the proper term be ‘the buddy system’?
Eye roll. I am talking about the vine which produces buds. Sheesh.
Nascent buds form on the vine during the previous growing season, and essentially stay dormant until the following spring. The ”bud system” is composed of primary, secondary, and tertiary buds which form during a given growing season, 2023 in our example. Primary buds break and develop first. If they die the secondary buds are then relied upon. They develop later than the primary buds and so forth for the tertiary buds. The problem is two-fold. In the winter of 2024, in some cases, all buds – primary, secondary, and tertiary - were killed. This meant no grapes from those vines. Where they survive, the tertiary buds generally come in too late in BC, not arriving until June. This makes it difficult for grapes ripen fully depending on the grape variety.
This all resulted in a decrease in grape and wine production estimated at 97-99%. The vine death was estimated at 14-18% in 2024.
Speaking of grapes – where does Syrah come into the 2024 equation?
Syrah is a cold-sensitive vine. It suffered significant winter kill. Many producers have decided not to replant Syrah as a result. What is unfortunate is that Syrah is so appreciated and considered such a darling that it fetches super-premium prices. This means that some producers will gamble and replant, as they believe that the high quality of Syrah is worth the risk and the potential return!
And they, like you, love Syrah!
EXACTLY! Without further ado scroll down for this week’s featured wine!
For more on this story please refer to Michaela Morris’ fantastic reports on Meininger’s here.
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Winemaker’s Cut Syrah 2021 from Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Style: New World Full Body Red
Varieties: 100% Syrah
This fruit forward and deep wine has flavors of black cherry & black currant, kirsch, herbal notes (mint & rosemary), and eventually (with decanting) red currant and cherry. It also shows the complexity of vanilla, dark chocolate, and cedar. The wine has a balanced structure, has high intensity, and a persistent finish.
Best pairings: Grilled lamb chops with dried rosemary & balsamic wet rub, Smoked brisket, Duck breast with cherry sauce, Wild mushroom risotto, Aged cheddar, Gouda, or blue cheese.
Serving Temperature: 15-17 degrees Celsius
Serving Tips: Decant a minimum of 30 minutes. The decantation provided an increase of precision of fruit flavors as well as an increase in the presence of red fruit notes, red currant in particular.
Price: ~$ 41 Cdn
I have compiled all my wine recommendations in one place. I will do my best to keep this up to date. I also include the link(s) to the article in which the wine was featured.
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SOURCES:
Climate change forces British Columbia to question its future (no date) Climate Change Forces British Columbia to Question Its Future | Meininger’s International. Available at: https://www.meiningers-international.com/wine/insights/climate-change-forces-british-columbia-question-its-future (Accessed: 26 November 2024).
Harding, J. and Robinson, J. (2023) The oxford companion to wine. Oxford, United Kingdom: Oxford University Press.
MacNeil, K. (2022) The wine bible. New York, NY: Workman Publishing.
Michaela Morris February 21 and Morris, M. (2022) British columbia syrah: Canada’s Rising star, Decanter. Available at: https://www.decanter.com/premium/british-columbia-syrah-canadas-rising-star-474907/ (Accessed: 26 November 2024).
Wine & Spirit Education Trust (2021) D3: Wines of the World - An accompaniment to the WSET Level 4 Diploma in Wines. Version 1.2. London: Wine & Spirit Education Trust.
Thx. This makes me really want to get out to BC one of these days.