Pinot Noir: The Diva Grape That's Worth It
Pinot Noir Goes on a Spa Retreat!
Pinot Noir’s origins are believed to go back to Roman times, with evidence of the grape’s presence in France in the 4th century. In Burgundy, roughly 1000 years later, monks meticulously tended to the grape, documenting the microclimate and soil variations over very small areas. A similar system is still used today (see map), resulting in some of the most expensive and sought after wines in the world!
Pinot Noir is considered a diva grape because it requires a lot of attention in the vineyard and winery. Let us walk through its life drawing parallels with a diva spa vacation. Firstly, the Pinot Noir grape has thin skin and tight bunches, resulting in susceptibility to many diseases due to delicate skins and less air flow between the grapes. This can result in loss of fruit or the need for special vineyard care. Similarly, the diva requires special attention due to her delicate and particular nature.
Grape flavors, color, and tannins are found in grape skins, seeds, and stems. Pinot Noir’s thin skin results in naturally lower flavor, tannins, and color. This means extra attention is also required in the winery. For quality Pinot Noir, a pre-fermentation cold soak is typically performed to extract the most flavor and color into the juice. It is like soaking in cold mineral pools during a spa vacation.
Fermentation is allowed to start within a few hours or a few days of the cold soak, but the diva care does not end there. The winemaker encourages further extraction by maximizing contact between the solids (skins, seeds, stems), and the wine. Methods used include pump overs, where wine is drawn from the bottom of the fermentation vessel and pumped to the top, or punch downs, where the solids at the top of the tank are pushed down below the liquid level. These methods are not unique to Pinot Noir; many other grape varieties will also see these techniques, but Pinot Noir will receive them more frequently and with more meticulous attention compared to other grapes. Think of them as therapeutic massage treatments performed by trained spa staff - in this case the winemaker!
Tannin solubility rises in the presence of alcohol. During fermentation, the increasingly alcoholic solution extracts more tannins from the solids. (See! Wine IS a solution after all!) After fermentation is complete, soaking may continue in order to extract even more tannins and flavours, typically lasting a maximum of 3 weeks.
To ensure her satisfaction, the diva’s spa retreat demands specific costly amenities like a luxury hotel room with precise temperature control, and even a specific color M & M candy! Similarly, the extra attention demanded by Pinot Noir results in more time and labor in the vineyard and winery, making the wine more expensive to produce.
Despite all its particularities, Pinot Noir wine is produced throughout the world. Noteworthy regions for Pinot Noir red wines are Burgundy, Oregon, Loire (red Sancerre), California, and Canada. In white or rosé sparkling wines, Pinot Noir is the most used grape (along with Chardonnay). Pinot Noir based sparkling wines are made worldwide, notably in France: Champagne, Crémant d’Alsace, and Crémant de Bourgogne; and in Italy: Franciacorta, Trentodoc, and Prosecco (Rosé only).
So why do wine producers from around the world bother with all this pain and extra expense? The diva would characterize herself as worth it! Well, so is Pinot Noir! It produces some of the most sought after and consequently expensive wines in the world, especially from Burgundy. Ultimately, wine drinkers demand it and are willing to pay for it. Fortunately, producers love the challenge of producing the most stunning version of it! Halleluiah!
Portlandia Pinot Noir 2021 from Oregon
Style: Medium Body Red Wine
Variety: 100% Pinot Noir
This bright wine leads with strawberry & raspberry on the palate & finishes with cedar & black tea. Perfect balance between the medium tannins and fresh acidity allows for drinking enjoyment with or without food.
Best pairings: savory flavored grilled salmon, mushroom risotto, beet salad, soft cheeses.
Price: ~$37 (incl. 5% gst)
Acknowledgment:
Robinson, J. (2015) The oxford companion to wine. 4th rev. ed. Corby: Oxford University Press.
Wine & Spirit Education Trust (2021) D1: Wine Production - An accompaniment to the WSET Level 4 Diploma in Wines. Version 1.2. London: Wine & Spirit Education Trust.
Wine & Spirit Education Trust (2021) D3: Wines of the World - An accompaniment to the WSET Level 4 Diploma in Wines. Version 1.2. London: Wine & Spirit Education Trust.
Wine & Spirit Education Trust (2021) D4: Sparkling Wines - An accompaniment to the WSET Level 4 Diploma in Wines. Version 1.2. London: Wine & Spirit Education Trust.
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I HAVE had the Central Otago Pinots! They are delicious! I love how the Central Otago is such a unique place too - sounds like a good topic for a future post! Thanks for your interest Jo!
Have you tried a New Zealand, more specifically Central Otago, Pinot?
We think they are rather good. :-)