Margaret River’s Secret Weapon & Down Under Pioneers
-clones, small bunches, family trips & much more
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Many of my friends are winos and a lot of my family members are too! Some of them travelled to Western Australia in December and were very impressed with the Vasse Felix winery. I got a play by play of the interaction with the winery, including pictures of various wine bottle sightings afterwards.
I had previously tasted the Vasse Felix ‘Filius’ Chardonnay the store currently has in stock, but the “familial” excitement called upon me to bring a bottle home. I was impressed.
What impressed you?
The bright acidity yet richness of intense captivating flavour. That combination can be difficult to achieve.
I had heard of the winemaker, Virginia Willcock, as she has visited the store before, unfortunately I missed the visit. She made quite the impression on my colleagues, who said she was quite the character. But what I didn’t realize is that Vasse Felix are pioneers in the Margaret River wine region.
Winemaking is relatively new to Australia dating to the early 1800s.
What no Romans? Greeks maybe? How about monks?
Nope. It’s the new world baby!
But if we think early 1800s is new. Let’s talk mid-1900s!
Okay wow, that is “recent-recent” wine speaking wise, isn’t it!
It sure is!
1967 is when Vasse Felix came to be in Margaret River in the state of Western Australia.
Pioneers.
Truly.
But I want to start by setting the stage geographically – follow me down under.
As you can see on the map, most of Australia wine regions are in southeastern Australia. Margaret River is on the other side of Australia.
And Australia is BIG.
Yes from east to west Australia is almost 4000 km (2500 miles).
Zooming into Western Australia, the Margaret River wine region, shown in purple, is all by itself on the peninsula in the most southwestern corner of Australia. The peninsula is surrounded by the Indian Ocean to the north and west, while the Southern Ocean is to the south. This is key to producing quality wine.
Tell me more.
The Margaret River wine region is at about 34-degrees south latitude. Quality wine regions are typically between 30–50-degrees latitude (north or south). Margaret River is on the warmer side of this latitude spread, so cooling influences are important to produce quality wine. The region is flat and only at 40-90 m elevation above sea level, so the cooling comes from the proximity to the ocean here.
The cooling slows the ripening down, allowing time for grapes to produce more complex flavours and retain acidity.
Wow! Someone is a regular reader of Shades of Grape Substack!
You know it, mate!
Margaret River is the most well-known of the wine regions in Western Australia, with over 200 wineries now in operation.
Their key black grapes are Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, and Merlot, and for whites the super stars are Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Semillon. Margaret River however, is known for Cabs and Chards.
Let’s get back to Vasse Felix please! I am curious to hear more!
Yes, it all started with Dr. Thomas Brendan Cullity, a cardiologist, who kickstarted Margaret River with Vasse Felix. They are credited for being the first commercial vineyard and first commercial wine producer of the region.
Wow he clearly put a lot of “heart” into it … and it must have taken a lot of heart(s) to become the first winery in a very isolated region!
Oh brother … enough with the puns … are you French-Canadian or something? Sheesh!
Twelve years before the winery was born, the University of California had identified Margaret River as a viable wine region. Fast forward a decade, the University of Western Australia found that the climate and soils are ideal for making high quality wine.
The first vineyards that were planted with Cab Sauv and Malbec for Vasse Felix are still producing. Their first serious wines were produced five years after inception with a Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec blend and a Riesling.
But your featured wine is a Chard, right?
Yes, Chard is the region’s leading white. I mentioned above how for a warmer climate I was really impressed with the brightness of the wine. It made me want to dig a little deeper into how they achieve this.
I’ve mentioned grape clones here before, defined as:
During a vine’s growth, random genetic mutations can occur. Many mutations are irrelevant and have no effect on the vine. Some will vary its characteristics such as its resistance to disease, the grape size, or skin thickness. Such variations are considered clones of the same variety.
It turns out Vasse Felix uses the Gingin Chardonnay clone that I had never heard of before. It is common in Margaret River and is known for its small bunches, about 70-100 grams/bunch versus typical Chardonnay bunches weighing closer to 100-150g. The Gingin clone tends to have concentrated fruit flavours and naturally retains acidity.
Cool! You got your answer!
Totally! This clone also tends to ripen slowly – so as you correctly mentioned above, this creates more flavour complexity in the grapes.
Okay, this is a good place to end and scroll down to the featured wine details section and related links!
Agreed! All done and dusted.
That is Australian for “That’s all folks!“
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Vasse Felix ‘Filius’ Chardonnay 2024, from Margaret River, Western Australia
Style Moderately Full Body White Wine
Varieties: Chardonnay
This tangy dry wine has captivating flavours of green apple, tangerine, white nectarine, lemon, and unripe mango. It also has the additional complexity of cream and vanilla, with hints of herbal, white pepper, baking spice, honey, and ginger. This high intensity wine leans more towards aromatic versus mineral and a has very long finish.
Best pairings: Seafood (grilled prawns, scallops, or lobster), Lemon Chicken, Creamy pasta dishes, Lamb shawarma with tzatziki, Ratatouille, and Cheese: Mild Mediterranean cheeses like halloumi or ricotta
Serving Temperature: 8-10 degrees Celsius
Serving Tips: Enjoy
Price: ~$30 Cdn
Relevant Shades of Grape links: Keep scrolling
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LINKS TO RELEVANT PAST SHADES OF GRAPE ARTICLES:
SOURCES:
Australian Government Geoscience Australia, no date. Continental extremities. [online] Available at: https://www.ga.gov.au/scientific-topics/national-location-information/dimensions/continental-extremities?utm_source=chatgpt.com [Accessed 18 December 2025].
AWD Margaret River Consumer Guide, no date. [online PDF] Available at: https://assets-us-01.kc-usercontent.com/c28c6566-725d-0048-c076-bd0fa28fb4a9/d1eba9b0-b437-4b26-ae36-64d2041e4034/AWD_MargaretRiver_ConsumerGuide.pdf [Accessed 18 December 2025].
Harding, J. and Robinson, J., 2023. The Oxford companion to wine. Oxford: Oxford University Press.
Inherit, no date. Heritage inventory details: Margaret River property. [online] Available at: https://inherit.dplh.wa.gov.au/public/inventory/details/84303d54-8cd4-44a8-8291-4ad39906ee30?utm_source=chatgpt.com [Accessed 18 December 2025].
MargaretRiver.Wine, no date. Viticulture & winemaking. [online] Available at: https://margaretriver.wine/viticulture-winemaking/ [Accessed 18 December 2025].
National Parliamentary Library of Georgia, no date. Chardonnay. [online] Available at: https://www.nplg.gov.ge/wikidict/index.php/Chardonnay?utm_source=chatgpt.com [Accessed 18 December 2025].
Shades of Grape, no date. Weissburgunder: it’s Pinot Blanc baby. [online] Available at: https://www.shadesofgrape.ca/p/weissburgunder-its-pinot-blanc-baby [Accessed 18 December 2025].
Vasse Felix, no date. Chardonnay. [online] Available at: https://www.vassefelix.com.au/chardonnay?utm_source=chatgpt.com [Accessed 18 December 2025].
Vasse Felix, no date a. Margaret River. [online] Available at: https://www.vassefelix.com.au/margaret-river [Accessed 18 December 2025].
Vasse Felix, no date b. Our story. [online] Available at: https://www.vassefelix.com.au/our-story [Accessed 18 December 2025].
Vineyards.com, no date. Wine map: Australia — Western Australia. [online] Available at: https://vineyards.com/wine-map/australia/western-australia?utm_source=chatgpt.com [Accessed 18 December 2025].
Wine & Spirit Education Trust, 2025. D3: Wines of the World - An accompaniment to the WSET Level 4 Diploma in Wines. Version 1.2. London: Wine & Spirit Education Trust.
Certainly Vasse Felix is outstanding, but don't forget Cape Mentelle. We had a great experience ther a couple of years ago when we were playing cricket at Bunbury.
We did come across a Verdelho in NZ this summer when we were home. It was great. I remain a chardonnay fan ;)