Knights, Legends, and Sangiovese: The Chianti Classico Story
– celebrating 100 Years of Chianti Classico Consortium
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The start of my Vermentino article was in a hotel bar in Florence. The date:
May 14, 2023.
You must have a travel diary or you are idiot-savant (hee hee)!
No, it was my ‘adoptive’ niece’s birthday – hence a special dinner in Florence!
While researching Chianti Classico, I found out that 1 year later to the day – May 14, 2024 - would be the 100th anniversary of the Chianti Classico Vino Consorzio (Consortium in English). It is the organising body whose role is to protect and promote the Chianti Classico Gallo Nero Brand. (Gallo Nero is black rooster in English). A century ago, the Consortium was the first of its kind.
In Chianti vs Chianti Classico, I discuss the difference between the 2 sub-regions of Chianti and Chianti Classico, as well as the rooster, the historical symbol for Chianti Classico.
Let me guess, there is a rooster legend?
The legend is set in the 13th century. Italy was not what we know today, but rather a bunch of city states. In Tuscany, typically each city was set on a hill within the undulating countryside, providing a vantage point to protect people, property, and land. These city states were often in constant battle with one another.
Siena and Florence, the two main city states of Tuscany, were no different. They fought over the ownership of the Chianti hills that lie between them, where Chianti wines are made.
The legend goes that the two states finally agreed how to resolve the land dispute.
I imagine a gun duel or some jousting.
Nope.
A horse race.
A knight from each city would depart at dawn and head toward the rival city. Dawn was to be determined by their rooster’s crow.
Highly technical.
According to Google maps, the distance travelled would be roughly 70 km as the crow flies (pun intended). Wherever the knights met would determine the border between the two territories.
Let me guess, this is where a black rooster comes in.
The Florentines put their chosen rooster in a box, and yes, it was a black rooster. They left the poor little feller in there for a few days without food.
Mean.
Race day, when they took him out, he sang considerably earlier than dawn, giving the Florentine knight a head start. So much so that he met his Sienese counterpart only 20 km outside of the Siena walls.
Speechless.
(For once.)
Today’s featured wine weaves in with the legend very well, as it comes from a winery relatively close to said border, about 25 km northeast of the city of Siena. Its site was once a small and ancient medieval village dating to the 1100s. This village was instrumental in protecting the city state of Siena, and was often besieged by the Florentines. Documentation exists showing that it became amalgamated with the city of Siena in August 1176.
Today the wine estate of Castell’in Villa is owned by Greece-born Princess Coralia Pignatelli della Leonessa, who bought the property in 1968 with her now late-husband Riccardo. After Riccardo’s death in 1985, the Princess focused her time entirely on Riccardo’s passion, despite not being a wine drinker herself.
Bet THAT changed.
She sold their home in Rome and moved to the property, which was in disrepair. Only the tower was in good shape. Many original structures have since been restored, keeping its medieval charm with a killer view of the Chianti hills.
The estate makes their Chiantis with 100% Sangiovese grapes.
Sangiovese literally translates from latin (sanguis Jovis) to ‘blood of Jove’ - Jove being a synonym for Jupiter, the chief god of ancient Rome and Italy. Sangiovese wine color can be brick or ‘blood’ red due to lower color pigment concentration. Color pigmentation comes from the grape skins, which for Sangiovese are thin.
Thin skins and other factors give this grape a reputation for being difficult, making it more susceptible to disease.
And insults! HA!
Factors such as early budding and late ripening make Sangiovese susceptible to spring frost and autumn rains, which can result in lower yields and difficulty achieving ideal ripeness.
Sangiovese is by far the dominant grape of Tuscany and even Italy. In Tuscany, it is the main grape for the wines of Chianti and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano sub-regions, and the only grape allowed in Rosso and Brunello di Montalcino sub-regions. It can also be found in many Super Tuscan wines.
In Chianti Classico wine laws require a minimum of 80% Sangiovese, although in practice most are 90% Sangiovese. The featured wine is 100% Sangiovese.
In choosing my featured wine, I plan a meal to pair with it. Some time before the meal, I open the bottle to decide if it needs decanting. I evaluate the wine, observe how it evolves, and make notes. When it came to this featured wine 2 things happened.
1) It didn’t last until dinner,
2) I didn’t take notes, as it “disappeared” before I got up to get my notebook.
Lushes.
This is actually the first time this has happened. Having another potential Chianti for the next evening, I figured I had it handled. However, that wine did not “make the cut” to be a feature wine! In an act of sacrifice for my readers, I was forced to buy another bottle of the first wine, which was enjoyed as much if not more than the initial one!
Phew! Crisis averted!
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Castell’in Villa Chianti Classico 2019 from Tuscany, Italy
Style: Old world full body red
Varieties: 100% Sangiovese
This wine is the epitome of balance; structured yet smooth. The fruit flavors are dominated by strawberry and various types of cherry: red cherry, black cherry, dusty cherry, and dried cherry; with hints of cranberry, red currant, and raspberry. It also has the complexity of a “herbally anise note”, white pepper, earth, and hints of cocoa and vanilla. The tannins are ripe with a slight grip providing a slightly grainy texture on the palate.
Best pairings: Ravioli lasagna, Fennel flavored sausage, Veal parmigiana, Mushroom risotto, Hard cheeses: Parmigiano-Reggiano, Pecorino, Aged Gouda.
Serving Temperature: 16-18 degrees Celsius
Serving Tips: Decanting for a minimum of 30 minutes benefits the intensity of aromas, flavors, and tannins and provides a fuller body.
Cost: ~$35 Cdn
I have compiled all my wine recommendations in one place. I will do my best to keep this up to date. I also include the link(s) to the article in which the wine was featured.
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SOURCES:
Castell’in villa - Le Tre Sorelle Wine Room. Available at: https://www.letresorellewineroom.it/en/brand/35-castell-in-villa (Accessed: 05 August 2024).
Castell’in villa - Château Monty. Available at: https://chateaumonty.com/castellin-villa/ (Accessed: 05 August 2024).
Harding, J. and Robinson, J. (2023) The oxford companion to wine. Oxford, United Kingdom: Oxford University Press.
History (2022) Castell’in Villa. Available at: https://castellinvilla.com/en/history/ (Accessed: 05 August 2024).
Jupiter summary - Encyclopædia Britannica. Available at: https://www.britannica.com/summary/Jupiter-Roman-god#:~:text=Jupiter%2C%20or%20Jove%2C%20Chief%20god,Rome%20by%20the%20Etruscans. (Accessed: 05 August 2024).
Know your grapes: Sangiovese (2022) Wine Spectator. Available at: https://www.winespectator.com/articles/sangiovese-57814 (Accessed: 05 August 2024).
Sangiovese - Decanter. Available at: https://www.decanter.com/wine/grape-varieties/sangiovese/ (Accessed: 05 August 2024).
What is Chianti classico? - Fall in love with Chianti, Italy! Available at: https://www.chianti.com/wine/chianti-classico.html (Accessed: 05 August 2024).2024).
Visiting chianti classico: Part 7, castell’in villa. Available at: https://www.wineanorak.com/italy/ChiantiClassico7_CastellinVilla.htm (Accessed: 05 August 2024).
Wine & Spirit Education Trust (2021) D3: Wines of the World - An accompaniment to the WSET Level 4 Diploma in Wines. Version 1.2. London: Wine & Spirit Education Trust.
Damn, they cheated, got more land, and still besieged the other side constantly in any event? Those Florentines will little F**kentines.
What a terrific read!
Must find that wine! It sounds like it may taste close to a Brunello!