From Tuscan Hills to North American Tables: The Montalcino Wine Story
From Tuscan Hills to North American Tables: The Montalcino Wine Story
– North America's obsession with Italian wines
North America loves Italian wines. The USA and Canada are the top 2 importing markets of the two Tuscan wine regions of Chianti Classico and Montalcino. Where does this influence come from? Let us focus on the region of Montalcino, named after the hill town of Montalcino in Southern Tuscany. Its famous wine Brunello di Montalcino was first bottled in 1865 by the Biondi-Santi family, although Brunello’s existence was documented as far back as the 14th century.
The wine is made with 100% Sangiovese grapes. Like some other grape varieties, Sangiovese naturally mutates easily. The Biondi-Santi family successfully isolated a Sangiovese clone that goes by the names Sangiovese Grosso or Brunello (hence the wine’s name). In 1932 the family was still the only commercial producer of the wine.
I still don’t get the connection with North America’s special interest in the wine.
In the 1970’s the Italo-American Mariani family put Brunello di Montalcino on the path to commercial success (and on the North American radar). The American born family started Banfi in 1919, importing Italian wines into the USA. They identified that the Brunello di Montalcino wine’s commercial success depended on reducing the time required for the wines to be drinkable. At that time, the tannins required 10 years of aging to soften and integrate into the wine.
To this aim, Banfi formed Castello Banfi winery, purchased lands in warmer portions of Montalcino, and focused on different techniques in the vineyard and in the winery. These changes were successful and resulted in an increase in commercial producers by about an order of magnitude to about 200 producers. Ultimately, the wine laws were changed and Brunello di Montalcino ageing requirement dropped to 4 years ageing with 2 of those in oak.
In the early 1980’s the wine region introduced a new wine called Rosso di Montalcino. This wine is produced from the same Sangiovese clone, the Brunello/Sangiovese Grosso, but Rosso di Montalcino does not require any oaking and can be sold after 1 year of ageing. This gives producer some flexibility to make different wines to offer a range of wines for different occasions, or from wines that do not have the same ageing potential (lower tannin, acidity, and aroma and flavor concentration). Examples of such wines are those made of grapes from: younger vines, vineyards with poorer growing conditions, or difficult vintages. This also gives producers additional revenue and earlier cashflow (as the wines are released onto the market earlier).
By the 1990’s Montalcino wines were a hit in North America, which brings me to the Terre Nere wine Rosso di Montalcino. This wine has been aged in oak for 6 months, and is produced from vines of the same 20 years average age as the producer’s Brunello di Montalcino.
Terre Nere Rosso di Montalcino 2019 from Tuscany, Italy
Style: Medium Body Red Wine
Varieties: 100% Sangiovese (Brunello/Sangiovese Grosso clone)
This enticing wine with violet aroma and flavors of crunchy red cherry, red plum, kirsch, blueberry with complexity from cedar, anise, peppery and earthy notes followed by mint and thyme undertones. The tannins are well integrated and the finish is persistent. Its freshness characteristic of Italian reds makes it a food wine.
Best pairings: Herbed Grilled Pork Chops, Chicken in Mushroom & Thyme Sauce, Cannelloni Pasta with Tomato Sauce, Risotto, Grilled Vegetables, Prosciutto, Salami, and Pecorino cheese
Serving Temperature: 16 degrees Celsius
Price: ~$39 (incl. Shades of Grape 15% discount & 5% gst)
Serving Tips: Decant 45 minutes or to taste
I have compiled all my relevant wine recommendations in one place including today’s wines. I will do my best to keep this up to date. That version also has links on where to find the wines in Alberta.
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Banfi: Who we are - our history, Banfi. Available at: https://www.banfi.it/en/story/family.php (Accessed: 01 January 2024).
Frank, M. (2016) Harry Mariani, pioneering importer and champion of Italian wine, dies at 78, Wine Spectator. Available at: https://www.winespectator.com/articles/harry-mariani-pioneering-importer-and-champion-of-italian-wine-dies-at-78-52576 (Accessed: 01 January 2024).
Mariani family of Banfi (2023) University of Houston. Available at: https://www.uh.edu/hilton-college/About/Hospitality-Industry-Hall-of-Honor/Inductees/Mariani-Family-of-Banfi%20/ (Accessed: 01 January 2024).
Robinson, J. (2015) The oxford companion to wine. 4th rev. ed. Corby: Oxford University Press.
Terre Nere (2023) Terre Nere Montalcino. Available at: https://terreneremontalcino.it/en/ (Accessed: 01 January 2024).
Wine & Spirit Education Trust (2021) D1: Wine Production - An accompaniment to the WSET Level 4 Diploma in Wines. Version 1.2. London: Wine & Spirit Education Trust.
Wine & Spirit Education Trust (2021) D3: Wines of the World - An accompaniment to the WSET Level 4 Diploma in Wines. Version 1.2. London: Wine & Spirit Education Trust.
Wineries (no date) Consorzio del vino Brunello di Montalcino. Available at: https://www.consorziobrunellodimontalcino.it/en/592/wineries (Accessed: 01 January 2024).
It's my understanding that Banfi was instrumental in Brunello's rise in North America. They were based in New York and got the American restaurants on board with Brunello starting in the 1980s. And it didn't hurt that the wine was authentically on another tier than most.
This was an excellent recommendation for our roasted pork dinner!