From Critter Wines to Velvety Delights: Australia's got it all!
Slow and Steady Wins the Flavor Race: How Slower Ripening Creates Wine Wonders in Heathcote Region
Australia has come a long way since Yellow Tail wine led the critter wine days, starting in 2001 and lasting well into the late 2010s. Images of creatures like wallabies and penguins adorned the labels. Eventually, people avoided Australian wines due to the perception that they only made "commodity level" wines. These wines were engineered to be appealing to a palate of people referred to as "near-wine" drinkers. Like grape juice, these wines contained higher sugar, low acid, and low tannins.
On Saturday morning, just out of bed, I prepared for the evening's wine tasting. A Cork customer, Mr. X, had lined up a wine tasting at home for his wife's 50th. He wanted to have his friends and family experience wines other than their usual choices from the U.S. and Canada. I immediately thought of doing an old world vs. new world showdown as the tasting theme! Mr. X loved the idea, we were clearly aligned! (Old World wines being wines from Europe by definition, and new world wines being everything else!)
I chose Australia as the new world country. I went down several rabbit holes before Black Angus Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 piqued my interest. I was a little skeptical based on the producer's website. I couldn't figure out their company name (I still don’t know actually). Concerned they don't pay attention to details, I wondered if they do the same for their grape growing and winemaking? I also could not decide if I liked that beef was a prominent part of their marketing. The website's pictures were equally divided between wine and raw beef pictures. It is just a little weird!
Now back to Saturday morning and the Black Angus 2019. The wine was a little cool, so I let it warm up in the glass prior to preparing my tasting notes.
Upon my return!...
"GOOD MORNING, AUSTRALIA!" I exclaimed.
"Wow!"
On the nose, very precise eucalyptus, and raspberry compote aromas, with some slightly funky earthy undertones!
“What is going on here, baby?”, I exclaimed.
I had a taste! The texture, like velvet, caressed the inside of my cheeks and tongue. Next, some black cherry and black currant, chocolate, and cedar flavors came through!
“Mmmm,” I mumbled quietly. “Where is this from again? Let's go back to the beef website.”
Heathcote, located in the state of Victoria, 140 km due north of Melbourne, is the region where this wine is from. The Heathcote region has only been an official wine region since 2002. Part of Victoria's highlands, Heathcote lies on the side of the Mount Carmel Range, north of the Great Divide Mountain Range in Central Victoria.
The region's altitude, cooling winds, long sunny days, and cool nights all play a role in slowing down ripening, which is a major factor in producing high-quality fruit. Just like when a stew is allowed to simmer, or better yet, left until the next day, better flavors develop.
Heathcote was originally a town focused on gold mining and logging, attracting immigrants. As early as the 1850s, some seekers eventually gave up their dreams of striking gold, leading them to move north to develop lands for grazing, cropping, and vines in the Colbinabbin area, where the Black Angus wine's grapes come from a single vineyard.
Single vineyard!
Attention to detail, after all!
Colbinabbin has Aboriginal origins, meaning ‘the meeting of the black and red soils.’ This single vineyard has red, deep, calcium-rich ancient Cambrian soils, which have excellent water retention and require no irrigation. The result? Small, concentrated grapes with intense and complex rich flavors. I definitely notice that in the wine!
Black Angus is the flagship wine of the producer (whatever their name is)! An appropriate designation given the quality! It is outstanding. This is a perfect Christmas season wine! Something a little special for the occasion!
The critter wines are alive and well! If you like them – splendid go for it. But there are high quality options in Australia too. As for Black Angus Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, I am glad I overlooked my initial apprehensions. It goes to show you cannot judge a wine by its website!
Black Angus 2019* from Heathcote, Victoria, Australia - single vineyard Colbinabbin Estate Region
Style: Full Body Red Wine
Variety: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
This velvety textured wine leads with precise raspberry compote and attractive eucalyptus on the nose. It follows with black cherry, black current, chocolate, and cedar with earthy funkiness of wet leaves in the background.
Best pairings: Steak! 😊 Moussaka, Lamb, Vegetable with thyme and mushrooms. Avoid sweet or spicy sauces and seasoning (i.e. bbq sauce).
Price: ~$60
*click link for stores where wine is available in Alberta, Canada while quantities last.
Little, G. (2018) Making the case for Australian wine, SevenFifty Daily. Available at: https://daily.sevenfifty.com/making-the-case-for-australian-wine/ (Accessed: 27 November 2023).
Our Wine Region (no date) Heathcote winegrowers association. Available at: https://www.heathcotewinegrowers.com.au/our-wine-region/about#:~:text=The%20majority%20of%20soil%20under,for%20their%20water%20retention%20capabilities. (Accessed: 27 November 2023).
Proud past (no date) Campaspe Shire Council. Available at: https://www.campaspe.vic.gov.au/Our-council/About-council/Proud-past (Accessed: 27 November 2023).
Robinson, J. (2006) The quality or the Critter? Australian wines and the American palate, JancisRobinson.com. Available at: https://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/the-quality-or-the-critter-australian-wines-and-the-american-palate (Accessed: 27 November 2023).
Teeter, A. (2021) The yellow tail story: How two families turned Australia into America’s biggest wine brand, VinePair. Available at: https://vinepair.com/wine-blog/how-yellow-tail-gave-america-australian-wine/ (Accessed: 27 November 2023).
Victoria (2023) SevenFifty Daily. Available at: https://daily.sevenfifty.com/regions/victoria/ (Accessed: 27 November 2023).
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I believe it's the Aberdeen Wine Company...